The Czech Republic consumes more beer per person than any other country in the world. That statistic is cited so often it has become a cliche, but what it points to is a genuine and deeply embedded culture of brewing and drinking that shapes how restaurants, pubs, and social life function across the country.
The Pilsner Origin Story
The style of beer that most of the world drinks — light, golden, bottom-fermented lager — was invented in Plzen in 1842. Before that, Czech beer was dark, murky, and inconsistent. The Burghers of Plzen were so dissatisfied with the quality of local brewing that they hired a Bavarian brewer named Josef Groll, who combined Bohemian hops, soft Plzen water, and bottom-fermentation techniques to produce something entirely new.
Pilsner Urquell — the original pilsner — is still brewed in Plzen and still uses the same soft local water that made the original possible. The brewery runs tours that are worth doing if you are in the area; the unfiltered, unpasteurised version served directly from the lagering tanks in the cellars is genuinely different from the bottled product.
According to the history of pilsner brewing, the style spread rapidly across Europe and eventually became the template for the majority of commercially produced beer worldwide.
The Hospoda and the Pivnice
Czech pub culture is organised around two types of establishment: the hospoda (pub) and the pivnice (beer hall). The distinction is partly about size and partly about atmosphere. A pivnice is typically larger, louder, and more focused on beer as the primary purpose of the visit. A hospoda is smaller, more neighbourhood-oriented, and usually serves food alongside the beer.
Both operate on a system that is unfamiliar to visitors from countries where you order at the bar. In Czech pubs, you sit down and a server comes to you. They keep a paper tab on the table and mark each drink as it is ordered. You pay when you leave, not round by round. Attempting to pay after each drink is a reliable way to identify yourself as a tourist.
In a traditional Czech pub, placing a beer mat on top of your glass signals that you do not want another round. Leaving it flat on the table means you are ready for a refill. Servers will often bring a new beer before you have finished the current one — this is normal and not considered pushy.
How Czech Beer Is Classified
Czech beer is classified by degrees Plato — a measure of the original gravity of the wort before fermentation — rather than by alcohol percentage. The most common categories are desitka (10 degrees, roughly 4% ABV) and dvanactka (12 degrees, roughly 5% ABV). The desitka is lighter and more sessionable; the dvanactka is fuller and more complex.
The degree system means that ordering "a beer" in Czech requires a bit more specificity than in most countries. Asking for a "dvanactka" signals that you know what you are doing and usually results in better service.
Unfiltered beer (nefiltrované) is increasingly available and worth seeking out. The yeast left in suspension adds a hazy appearance and a slightly more complex flavour. Kozel Cerny — a dark lager — is another style worth trying if you have only encountered Czech lager in its pale form.
The Craft Beer Movement
Czech craft brewing has grown significantly since around 2010. The country now has hundreds of microbreweries, many of which are experimenting with styles that would have been unrecognisable to Czech drinkers a generation ago — IPAs, stouts, sour ales, and hybrid styles that combine Czech techniques with international influences.
The craft scene is most visible in Prague, where neighbourhoods like Vinohrady and Zizkov have a concentration of bars serving a wide range of domestic and imported craft beers. But smaller towns have also seen microbreweries open, often attached to restaurants or hotels, and the quality is frequently impressive.
The tension between traditional Czech brewing culture and the craft movement is real and occasionally heated. Purists argue that the classic Czech lager is already a perfectly refined product that does not need reinvention. Craft advocates respond that the homogenisation of the Czech beer market — dominated by a few large brands — has reduced the diversity that once characterised regional brewing.
Beer and Food Pairing in Czech Cuisine
Czech food and Czech beer are designed for each other in a way that is not always obvious until you experience it. The slight bitterness of a well-made pilsner cuts through the richness of svickova cream sauce. A dark lager complements the smoky, caramelised notes of roasted pork. The carbonation of a fresh draught beer cleanses the palate between bites of goulash.
This is not accidental. Czech cooking evolved alongside Czech brewing, and the flavour profiles of the food are calibrated to work with the beer. Eating Czech food with wine is perfectly possible, but it misses something fundamental about how the cuisine is meant to be experienced.
For a deeper understanding of Czech brewing traditions, the Czech Tourism beer guide provides useful context on regional brewing styles and notable breweries.